Archive for the ‘Dogs’ Category
Bark is part of dog’s natural and normal behavior and communication. Dogs can bark for good and befitting reasons, like as when they are flocking sheep, hear strange sounds and when outsider enters your house. Many of us desired our dogs to warn us against uncommon things and become watch dogs. But your dogs can also bark unsuitably which will lead to dog barking problem. Approximately, almost 1/3 of dog owners reported the excessive barking of their dogs based in two scientific surveys. We need first to know why they are barking in order to control their behavior.
Warning or alert barks are the kind of barks encourage by several owners. They wish their dog to warn them against the occurrence of a hazard or doubtful stranger. This is sometimes perceived as a severe level of dog barking problem.
Frequent low in pitch and integrated with growls are called aggressive barks. We’re required to recognize alerting barks from fearful barks. Barks that seek attention are always used by dogs to catch up your attention.
Sharp and short barks due to excitement are another form of dog barking problem. These are the usual barks if your dog gets too stimulated with the play or food. Frequently, a brief intermission will bring your dog into order.
If you heard that your dog appears to be responding other dogs barking, this is called a self-identification barking. Bored barkers plainly want an exit for their daily energy and a more exciting surrounding.
Anxious or lonely barking happens if your dog is undergoing separation anxiety. As he becomes more anxious and excited, barking can grow to self-reinforcing. Anxious barks inclined to get higher in pitch as he becomes more distressed. This can be particularly distracting to your neighbors.
There are various reasons for barking and some barking is a natural behavior while others are classified as dog barking problems. There are some conditions in which barking involves morbid or disease.
By: Trevor Somerville
About the Author:
Warning or alert barks are the kind of barks encourage by several owners. They wish their dog to warn them against the occurrence of a hazard or doubtful stranger. This is sometimes perceived as a severe level of dog barking problem.
Frequent low in pitch and integrated with growls are called aggressive barks. We’re required to recognize alerting barks from fearful barks. Barks that seek attention are always used by dogs to catch up your attention.
Sharp and short barks due to excitement are another form of dog barking problem. These are the usual barks if your dog gets too stimulated with the play or food. Frequently, a brief intermission will bring your dog into order.
If you heard that your dog appears to be responding other dogs barking, this is called a self-identification barking. Bored barkers plainly want an exit for their daily energy and a more exciting surrounding.
Anxious or lonely barking happens if your dog is undergoing separation anxiety. As he becomes more anxious and excited, barking can grow to self-reinforcing. Anxious barks inclined to get higher in pitch as he becomes more distressed. This can be particularly distracting to your neighbors.
There are various reasons for barking and some barking is a natural behavior while others are classified as dog barking problems. There are some conditions in which barking involves morbid or disease.
By: Trevor Somerville
About the Author:
For more information on dog barking problems and dog training in general check out: http://www.DogLearn.com
One of the most important things to teach your dog is how to walk on a leash. This is a good way to establish authority over your dog and let him know who is in charge. It is also a good way to bond with him and allow him to see sights other than just your backyard. Another benefit is it provides a great way for both you and your dog to get some exercise.
Start Leash Training When Fido Is Just A Puppy
The best time for a dog to learn this is when he is still a pup. However, it is never too late. Place a snug (but not TOO tight) collar on your puppy, then add the leash. Let him walk around dragging the leash and even allow him to eat while wearing it. Pet him while he is wearing the leash.
Do this for a few minutes each day and he will eventually not even notice it.
Remove The Leash When Leaving Fido Alone
Never leave him alone while wearing the leash. It could get caught on something and there could be tragic consequences. Always be close at hand when your dog is wearing his leash.
Here We Go
When it is time to take him for a walk, be sure that you have a good grasp on the leash. He may bound out the door and take off. If he is a big dog, the leash could be pulled out of your hand and he may be down the street before you know it.
Remember that you should maintain control. Never allow your dog to pull you. If he does, stop. Do not take another step until he releases the tension on the leash. He should never walk ahead of you.
Work In Progress
For awhile, leash training will be a work in progress. It may take some time for your best pal to get the hang of it. Just practice every day for a few minutes so that walking on a leash will become routine. You will both enjoy your walks once the training is out of the way.
Take your time, be patient with him, and stay calm. Don’t yell at him or drag him mercilessly down the street because he has ticked you off. He wants nothing more than to please you.
By: Ronda Tuckness
About the Author:
Start Leash Training When Fido Is Just A Puppy
The best time for a dog to learn this is when he is still a pup. However, it is never too late. Place a snug (but not TOO tight) collar on your puppy, then add the leash. Let him walk around dragging the leash and even allow him to eat while wearing it. Pet him while he is wearing the leash.
Do this for a few minutes each day and he will eventually not even notice it.
Remove The Leash When Leaving Fido Alone
Never leave him alone while wearing the leash. It could get caught on something and there could be tragic consequences. Always be close at hand when your dog is wearing his leash.
Here We Go
When it is time to take him for a walk, be sure that you have a good grasp on the leash. He may bound out the door and take off. If he is a big dog, the leash could be pulled out of your hand and he may be down the street before you know it.
Remember that you should maintain control. Never allow your dog to pull you. If he does, stop. Do not take another step until he releases the tension on the leash. He should never walk ahead of you.
Work In Progress
For awhile, leash training will be a work in progress. It may take some time for your best pal to get the hang of it. Just practice every day for a few minutes so that walking on a leash will become routine. You will both enjoy your walks once the training is out of the way.
Take your time, be patient with him, and stay calm. Don’t yell at him or drag him mercilessly down the street because he has ticked you off. He wants nothing more than to please you.
By: Ronda Tuckness
About the Author:
Ronda Tuckness is an affiliate marketer and big-time dog lover who hopes to eventually make a full-time income online. Find out more about her and man’s best friend at http://www.squidoo.com/i-luv-dogs
Dogs are not born with soft mouths, but they can learn to bite softly if taught properly, which means plenty of information and communication from you and from other dogs.
Interacting with other dogs is critical to teaching your puppy bite inhibition. When two dogs play together and one bites too hard, the other one cries and runs away. This behavior helps to teach the biter to play-bite softly.
Normal puppies can and should play-bite continually in social interactions, because biting and mouthing are normal canine behaviors. Puppies and young adolescent dogs have a physical and psychological need to use their mouths. Remember, dogs use their mouths the way humans use their hands.
Soft mouth exercises need to begin as soon as you get your new puppy. Puppy teeth are sharp, but their jaws are underdeveloped so these exercises should not be painful to you. When your puppy is mouthing your hand or fingers, monitor their bite pressure. If your puppy bites too hard, screech “OUCH” very loudly and look at your puppy as if she just ripped your hand off. Then leave the room and ignore your puppy for several minutes.
You need to make a strong impression on your puppy that if she bites too hard, she will end up playing all by herself. Being very social animals, most dogs and puppies will not opt to play by themselves. Be prepared to repeat this exercise over and over again so that a trend emerges…Bite too hard, play by yourself!
This exercise is even more effective if all the people that come into contact with your puppy implement it with one exception. Young children should never teach soft mouth exercises. When you puppy starts to get overexcited and begins to bite too hard, have your children leave the area so you can do the training.
When your puppy is consistently demonstrating better self-control, you can start to monitor even the moderate to light pressure bites. Now, if your puppy is putting her mouth on you with even moderate pressure, screech “OUCH,” leave, and ignore her for a few minutes. Then go back and try again.
Remember, you must give your puppy plenty of outlets for her mouth and jaws. Stuffed Kong toys, frozen wash cloths, chew toys soaked in broth or chicken stock, and tug-of-war games are just a few great ways for your puppy to use her mouth and jaws in an acceptable way. If you say no to one item (your hands or your clothes) you must say yes to another (her toys).
And always manage your puppy’s behavior. If she is biting and mouthing you excessively, this is a clear signal that she is bored and needs to release some energy. A good dose of aerobic exercise should remedy this.
On a final note, never reinforce your puppy’s biting or mouthy behavior. Your attention, be it scruff shaking, grabbing her snout, or smacking her nose is all reinforcement to your puppy and will make the problem worse.
Biting is a normal stage that puppies go through, and when properly managed, never needs to become a big issue down the road.
By: Eric Letendre
About the Author:
Interacting with other dogs is critical to teaching your puppy bite inhibition. When two dogs play together and one bites too hard, the other one cries and runs away. This behavior helps to teach the biter to play-bite softly.
Normal puppies can and should play-bite continually in social interactions, because biting and mouthing are normal canine behaviors. Puppies and young adolescent dogs have a physical and psychological need to use their mouths. Remember, dogs use their mouths the way humans use their hands.
Soft mouth exercises need to begin as soon as you get your new puppy. Puppy teeth are sharp, but their jaws are underdeveloped so these exercises should not be painful to you. When your puppy is mouthing your hand or fingers, monitor their bite pressure. If your puppy bites too hard, screech “OUCH” very loudly and look at your puppy as if she just ripped your hand off. Then leave the room and ignore your puppy for several minutes.
You need to make a strong impression on your puppy that if she bites too hard, she will end up playing all by herself. Being very social animals, most dogs and puppies will not opt to play by themselves. Be prepared to repeat this exercise over and over again so that a trend emerges…Bite too hard, play by yourself!
This exercise is even more effective if all the people that come into contact with your puppy implement it with one exception. Young children should never teach soft mouth exercises. When you puppy starts to get overexcited and begins to bite too hard, have your children leave the area so you can do the training.
When your puppy is consistently demonstrating better self-control, you can start to monitor even the moderate to light pressure bites. Now, if your puppy is putting her mouth on you with even moderate pressure, screech “OUCH,” leave, and ignore her for a few minutes. Then go back and try again.
Remember, you must give your puppy plenty of outlets for her mouth and jaws. Stuffed Kong toys, frozen wash cloths, chew toys soaked in broth or chicken stock, and tug-of-war games are just a few great ways for your puppy to use her mouth and jaws in an acceptable way. If you say no to one item (your hands or your clothes) you must say yes to another (her toys).
And always manage your puppy’s behavior. If she is biting and mouthing you excessively, this is a clear signal that she is bored and needs to release some energy. A good dose of aerobic exercise should remedy this.
On a final note, never reinforce your puppy’s biting or mouthy behavior. Your attention, be it scruff shaking, grabbing her snout, or smacking her nose is all reinforcement to your puppy and will make the problem worse.
Biting is a normal stage that puppies go through, and when properly managed, never needs to become a big issue down the road.
By: Eric Letendre
About the Author:
Eric Letendre, the author of The Amazing Dog Training Man, invites you to visit amazingdogtraining.com for leading edge dog training tips, instructional video clips and articles that will help you train and understand your dog. You can also get weekly dog training updates with a free Smart Dog Newsletter subscription, available at amazingdogtrainingman


